Red River Gorge Climbing Guide: Recommended Sport Climbing Routes

Having the right gear can make all the difference on a climbing trip to the Red River Gorge. As climbing guides, we feel we have some insight into what will help make your trip a success. In this guide, we’ll cover the top 5 gear tips for rock climbing in Red River Gorge, ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience. 1. Stick Clip This has to be our number one pick for climbing gear in the Red! What is a stick clip? A stick clip is a tool that lets you clip your rope through a quickdraw on the first bolt of a sport route without having to climb to the bolt first. One of the most common options is the Metolius Superclip, a simple attachment made of two wire loops that can screw onto a painter’s pole or other extension pole. Why do we recommend a stick clip for climbing in the RRG? There are several reasons: The first bolt on many sport routes here can be high, often 8 to 12 feet off the ground. Opening moves are often challenging, sometimes because the bases of popular climbs are eroded. Stick clips are also useful for projecting routes or bailing off a climb. Bonus uses: clearing spider webs on the approach trail or gently relocating a snake from the path! 😉 Where do you get a stick clip? Many outdoor retailers (both online and brick-and-mortar) sell stick clips. The Metolius superclip is available as just the attachment, which can be handy if you’re flying in and then you can pick up an extension pole locally. Alternatively, brands like Trango Beta Stick offer complete stick clip kits, including the pole. Locally, Miguel’s Pizza and Climb Shop sell stick clips, as does J&H Landmark in Lexington. If you’re climbing at Muir Valley , they even have loaner stick clips available at the main parking lot pavilion—just be sure to return them! Which stick clip should you purchase? We’re big fans of the Metolius Superclip, but whatever you choose, look for: A minimum 12-foot extension (though greater extension is not uncommon). Durability. An intuitive way to clip and unclip draws from bolts. 2. Rope Bag A rope bag or even a small tarp would be another top recommendation for climbing equipment in the Red River Gorge. What is a rope bag? A rope bag is a small bag that you can carry and store your rope in, with a built in tarp that you can roll your rope onto when in use. This will help protect your rope from dirt and moisture. Think of tent canvas in terms of light, water-resistant, durable, and pliable. Why do we recommend a rope bag for the RRG? The sandy terrain at most climbing areas in the Red River Gorge can quickly wear down your rope, and damp conditions at the base of routes are common. A rope bag provides a clean, dry surface to protect your rope, prolonging its lifespan and ensuring the continued performance of your belay devices, carabiners, and anchors. Where do you get a rope bag? You can get climbing rope bags from online retailers or local outdoor climbing such as a Miguel’s Pizza and Climb Shop in our area. Which rope bag should you purchase? The Metolius Ropemaster is a long-time favorite for its durability and ease of use. Look for bags with: A good-sized tarp. Cinch straps instead of zippers (zippers can break when exposed to dirt). A separate design from your climbing pack for versatility. 3. Belay Specs Belay glasses are becoming an increasingly popular piece of climbing gear—and for good reason! What are belay specs? These are specialized glasses that allow the belayer to look ahead while seeing above. Think of eyeglasses with little prisms. Why do we recommend belay specs? These clever glasses reduce neck strain while belaying, allowing you to focus on your climber without discomfort. Where do you get belay specs? You can get belay glasses from online retailers or local outdoor climbing such as a Miguel’s Pizza and Climb Shop in our area. You may want to call ahead to check availability and variety if you are looking for a particular pair. Which belay specs should you purchase? Since their popularity has grown there are multiple options on the market. But here are some of our some purchasing considerations and top recommendations. Purchasing Considerations: When choosing belay glasses, consider: Price : Affordable options (around $30) are often sufficient and durable. Peripheral View : Glasses with good peripheral vision are safer and often preferred by those prone to motion sickness. Weigh t: Lightweight designs with minimal nose material are ideal, especially if you wear corrective glasses or sunglasses. Accessories : A protective case is essential, especially when storing belay glasses alongside the rest of your climbing gear. Neck straps are also highly practical, making it easy to take the glasses on and off, and they work seamlessly with helmets. Top Recommendations: Top recommendations include BG Climbing (affordable and durable), Pitch 6 (adjustable prisms), and Y&Y Vertical (multiple options including corrective or protective eyewear clip-on style). 4. Performance Climbing Shoes The discussion of climbing shoes can become quite complex and particular. We will simply stick with some basics for this post. What are performance climbing shoes? For our purposes, performance climbing shoes will mean a climbing shoe that has a moderate to aggressive downturn in which toes are slightly or highly curled. Why do we recommend these types of climbing shoes for climbing in the Red River Gorge? This type of shoe mold will help to point and hook your toes onto pockets on the Red’s infamous steep climbing routes. Where do you get performance climbing shoes? Because you are looking for such a precise fit and your foot is unique it is best to get your climbing shoes from a local retailer. Miguel’s has a great selection in our area. You can also purchase climbing shoes online. Which climbing shoes should you purchase? Again because performance climbing shoes are so precise to your unique shoes, it is highly recommended to try them on and if you are able, try climbing or putting your toes and edges on climbing holds. Look for a fit with a moderate to aggressive downturned toe-box. Your toes should fit tightly, filling the toe box. The heel should also be snug, lacking the ability to slide off the back of your heel. The shoe should not be baggy around your heel but it also shouldn’t be digging into the back of your foot. Insider’s Tip : Events like the Rocktoberfest have shoe demos in which you can try out various brand’s models in the Red River Gorge. 5. Assisted Braking Belay Device Although the standard for belay devices is becoming assisted braking devices, it is still an important piece of equipment that we feel should be on this list. What is an assisted braking belay device? A belay device is used by the belayer to manage the rope as the climber is ascending or descending a route. An assisted braking device is designed to help the belayer in the event of a fall by adding a braking mechanism. Why do we recommend ABD belay devices for the RRG? We recommend ABD (assisted braking devices) for the RRG for multiple reasons. Here are a few: Due to the nature of climbing in the Red, falls are common. An ABD adds a layer of safety. If the climber wants to get back to their last piece of protection after a fall, an ABD is very helpful as a progress capture. Rockfall is not uncommon in our area. If the belayer is hit by falling debris, an ABD can add some security. Where do you get ABDs? You can get climbing assisted braking devices from online retailers or local outdoor climbing such as a Miguel’s Pizza and Climb Shop in our area. Which climbing assisted belay device should you purchase? There are many well-recommended ABDs on the market and climbers have appreciated all the growth in technology. Here are a few to get you started in your research of the best ABD for you or your party. Petzl GriGri Petzl Neox Black Diamond ATC Pilot Eldrid Pinch Eldrig Mega Jul Beal Birdie We are happy to help! Sometimes climbing equipment recommendations can be overwhelming. Feel free to email or call us with specific questions. Equip yourself properly, enjoy the incredible routes, and make the most of your time in this world-class climbing destination!

Spring is one of the best times to visit Red River Gorge , offering appreciable climbing conditions, vibrant wildflowers, and scenic hiking trails. As the cold of winter fades and the summer heat has yet to arrive, the Gorge comes alive with lush greenery and flowing waterfalls. Whether you're planning a climbing trip, a hiking adventure, or simply want to explore, this guide will help you make the most of Red River Gorge in the spring . 1. Spring Weather in Red River Gorge Spring in Red River Gorge brings mild temperatures, making it an excellent time for outdoor activities. Average Temperatures: March: Highs around 60°F (16°C), lows around 35°F (2°C) April: Highs around 70°F (21°C), lows around 45°F (7°C) May: Highs around 75°F (24°C), lows around 55°F (13°C) Weather Patterns: Spring sees a mix of sunny days and occasional rain showers. Mornings and evenings can be chilly, so pack layers. Rain can make gravel roads rutted and hiking trails mucky and slick—use caution. 2. Spring Climbing in Red River Gorge Spring is one of the preferred seasons for climbing in the Gorge, thanks to comfortable temperatures. Best Spring Climbing Areas: Arsenal and Solarium – Two nearby crags in Muir Valley that have good sun aspects for the cooler mornings and a bit of steepness to help keep some rain off. Miller Fork – Try Chaos, Serenity Point, or Fruit Wall in Miller Fork for good sun aspects, wide grad range, and a bit of steepness. Left Flank – A classic crag in North Gorge that gets sun. Tips for Spring Climbing: ✅ Check the hourly weather report – Being up to date on the local weather forecast is necessary in the early Spring season. Watch for the warmest parts of the day and for rain. ✅ Pack bug spray – As temperatures rise, insects start to appear. ✅ Watch for muddy trails – Spring rains can make approach trails slippery; wear waterproof hiking shoes with good tread. 3. Best Hiking Trails to Explore in the Spring If you’re looking to take a break from climbing or simply want to explore, Red River Gorge offers incredible hiking trails , especially in spring when wildflowers are in bloom. Top Spring Hiking Trails: 🌿 Auxier Ridge Trail (5 miles round-trip) – One of the most scenic hikes in the Gorge, offering stunning ridge-top views of Courthouse Rock and Haystack Rock. 🌿 Sky Bridge Trail (0.8 miles loop) – A short but scenic hike featuring a natural rock bridge and breathtaking springtime views. 🌿 Rock Bridge Trail (1.4 miles loop) – A lush, creekside hike leading to one of the only natural bridges in the Gorge with water flowing beneath it. 🌿 Gray’s Arch Trail (3.4 miles round-trip) – A must-see in the spring, this moderate hike leads to one of the most impressive sandstone arches in the region. 🌿 Indian Staircase & Cloud Splitter (5 miles round-trip, unmarked trail) – For the adventurous hiker, this challenging hike offers unique rock formations and incredible overlooks. 4. Other Spring Activities in Red River Gorge Beyond climbing and hiking, Red River Gorge in the spring offers plenty of other outdoor activities. 🌊 Kayaking & Canoeing – Spring rains bring higher water levels, making it a great time to kayak or canoe along the Red River. Rentals are available from local outfitters. 🦅 Wildlife Watching – Spring is a great time to spot deer, wild turkeys, and even bald eagles. Head to the quieter areas of the Gorge for the best chances of wildlife encounters. 🌸 Photography & Sightseeing – Spring blooms add vibrant colors to the landscape, making it a perfect time for photography. Popular spots like Chimney Top Rock and Half Moon offer incredible panoramic views. 🍕 Enjoy Local Eats – After a day of adventuring, stop by Miguel’s Pizza , a famous climber hangout, for a post-climb meal. 5. Tips for Visiting Red River Gorge in the Spring Start early – Spring weekends can get busy, especially at popular climbing crags and trails. Arriving early helps you avoid crowds. Dress in layers – Mornings and evenings can be chilly, while afternoons warm up quickly. Layering ensures you stay comfortable. Check trail & rock conditions – Rain can make some trails muddy and rocks unsafe to climb. Always check the latest conditions before heading out. Respect Leave No Trace principles – With spring bringing more visitors, it’s important to pack out all trash, stay on trails, and respect the natural beauty of the Gorge. Conclusion: Experience the Best of Red River Gorge in the Spring Spring is one of the best times to visit Red River Gorge, offering ideal climbing temperatures, stunning hiking trails, and incredible natural beauty. Whether you’re sending your first sport route, hiking to a scenic overlook, or simply soaking in the fresh spring air, there’s no shortage of adventure to be found. Plan your trip, pack your gear, and get ready to experience the magic of Red River Gorge in the spring ! Click here to book us as your Red River Gorge Climbing Guide Click here for more information about our via ferrata

Are you searching for the postcard-perfect viewpoints in Red River Gorge, Kentucky? We've highlighted some of our favorites to help you find the best spots for breathtaking vistas! 1. Hanson’s Point Description: In our opinion, Hanson's Point offers one of the most stunning views in the Gorge. From this vantage point, you can see valleys and distant mountain ridgelines. While the trail to Hanson’s Point is unofficial, it is generally well-marked and easy to navigate, although you will encounter a few large backpacking camping areas. Length: Approximately 5 miles total Type: Out and back Difficulty: Easy Reward: A relatively flat, easy-to-follow trail leads to an incredible ridgetop view that will be sure to make you smile and inhale deeply! Find More Info: Hanson's Point Hike – Kentucky Hiker

Planning your first climbing trip to the Red River Gorge, Kentucky? We've been guiding climbers in the area for decades, and we thought it would be useful to compile this guide of helpful tips for your first time visiting our area. Climbing Location Tips Let’s start with the thing you’re most excited about—where to climb and how to get there! Guidebooks One of the best things about the Red is the abundance of climbing information. For the most part, parking, trails, and crags are easy to find. The area boasts an impressive collection of guidebooks. If you’re looking for an overview of the top crags, Best of the Red is a great choice. It features much of the Natural Bridge and Southern Regions, including Muir Valley, PMRP, and Miller Fork. A quick Google search will also reveal the Red River Gorge North and Red River Gorge South guidebooks. These are excellent resources but require two books. Many sport climbers stick with the South book since most trad climbing is in the north. However, note that the South guidebook doesn’t include the Miller Fork region. For that, there’s a separate Miller Fork guidebook, but now you’re looking at three or four books! Not to overwhelm you with yet another guidebook, consider The Red: 2nd Edition . This comprehensive guide covers all the crags in the south, Muir Valley, and Miller Fork, as well as sport crags in the north. Mountain Project Mountain Project has become a valuable resource as well. In fact, you could navigate many must-see crags using just Mountain Project if you’re good at reading descriptions and visualizing layouts. However, combining it with Best of the Red or The Red will give you maps and detailed crag layouts, making navigation even easier. Purchasing Guidebooks We recommend buying guidebooks in advance from your favorite outdoor store or online retailer so you can start planning. If you want to support local businesses, Miguel’s Pizza and Climb Shop carries guidebooks and other essential climbing gear. Call ahead to check their stock. Other local stores, like Daniel Boone Coffee Shop, often keep guidebooks in stock. If you’re passing through Lexington, J&H Outdoor Store is another good option. Getting to the Crags Guidebooks and Mountain Project typically use Miguel’s Pizza and Campground as a starting point for directions. Miguel’s is centrally located between the North and South regions. From there: PMRP (top of the lode hill): ~20 minutes Miller Fork parking: ~30 minutes Nada Tunnel: ~10 minutes Roads to the Crags Most roads in the Red are curvy, two-lane, 55 mph routes in good condition. However, gravel roads are common, and many require 4x4 and good clearance. PMRP : Park at the top of the lode hill if you don’t have 4x4. Fixer Road : Usually needs 4x4 unless it’s been recently graded. It’s typically in better shape at the start of spring and fall. Miller Fork : Almost always requires 4x4, and unfortunately there are no alternative parking options. Parking PARK ONLY IN DESIGNATED SPOTS. Many climbing locations are near private property or restricted land, so sticking to designated parking helps preserve access. If a lot is full, pick another crag to visit or come back later. Parking in the north gorge is mostly paved pull-offs. Arrive early to secure a spot, and avoid parking along the roadside unless it’s a designated area. Trails Trails to the crags are well-marked. Bushwhacking is rare and typically only necessary in remote areas of the north gorge. Stay on the trails. This helps immensely with erosion and additionally with your safety in terms of less likely to encounter ground bees, snakes, poison oak and ivy, stinging nettles, and getting lost. Best Time of the Year to Climb in the RRG Fall and spring are the best seasons for climbing in the Red, with October, November, March, and April being peak months. For more details, check out our blog, Best Climbing Seasons in the Red River Gorge: A Brief Guide . Lodging Where should you stay while visiting the RRG? There are actually many options! In our remote area, lodging is one thing we do have. With that said, if you are getting a room or cabin, make reservations well in advance especially for the peak seasons of Spring and Fall. Camping We should certainly start with the legendary staple that has hosted countless climbers over the decades— Miguel's Pizza and Campground . For a small fee you can tent camp or car camp. There are showers, restrooms, wifi, restaurant, gear shop, basketball court, and many other amenities. For other climber friendly campgrounds you can also check out: Land of the Arches, Lago Linda, and Callie’s. Airbnb Numerous Airbnbs are available in the Red. One standout option is Nicole’s Airbnb, hosted by a local climbing guide. Her home is just five minutes from Miguel’s and Muir Valley. airbnb.com/h/red-river-gorge-nicoles-home-room-1 airbnb.com/h/red-river-gorge-nicoles-home-room-2 Cabins Cabin options are abundant. Simply search online and filter by price, size, amenities, and pet-friendliness. Grocery The nearest full-service grocery store is the Kroger in Stanton, about 15 minutes from Miguel’s. For a wider selection, Lexington is about an hour away. Pets The Red is generally dog-friendly. It goes without saying to please keep your dog(s) on a leash. If your dog is not friendly with other dogs or people, leave them at home or board them at Scooter’s station . Muir Valley and Natural Bridge State Park (hiking) do not allow dogs. Rest Day Activities When you actually need a break from the Red River Gorge climbing pump you should consider these top rate rest day activities. Via Ferrata : Southeast Mountain Guides hosts the first Via Ferrata in the USA. It is a bit harder than climbers give it credit, providing a perfect active rest day option. Hiking : Believe it or not people travel to the Red for things other than climbing! “The Gorge” has some stellar hiking with moderate hill climbs and breath-taking views. Check out Gray’s arch, Hanson’s Point, and Courthouse Rock to name a few. Bourbon and Breweries : Take a short drive to sample Kentucky’s famous bourbons and local breweries near Lexington, Elizabethtown, and Louisville. For more ideas, check out our blog, Things to Do in Red River Gorge Besides Climbing: A Nature Lover’s Guide . Conclusion Your first trip to the Red River Gorge will be one to remember. Plan well, climb smart , and take in the beauty of this world-class destination. We know this will not be your last visit. Enjoy!

When is the best time to climb in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky? Do climbers head to the cliffs year-round? As local climbing guides , we're versed in the intricacies of climbing here year-round. In this brief guide, we’ll give you insider beta on the best seasons to climb in "The Red" along with helpful tips and tricks for every time of year. The secret is out: you can climb in the Red all year long! As long as you have some schedule flexibility and are willing to brave certain conditions, it’s always possible to find a way to enjoy the rock. That said, the prime climbing months are typically October and November when the conditions are truly stellar.

Are you looking for the best climbing areas for beginners in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky? You’re in the right place! This guide highlights some of the most beginner-friendly crags in “The Red,” straight from experienced climbing guides who call this iconic climbing destination home. We made another post that outlines some of our favorite climbs at each difficulty , so be sure to check that out as well!

Nestled in the heart of Kentucky, Red River Gorge is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. While it’s widely renowned for its world-class rock climbing, the gorge offers so much more than scaling sandstone cliffs. From scenic hikes to peaceful water adventures, there’s something for every nature lover to enjoy. Whether you're visiting with friends or planning a family getaway, this guide will help you discover the many gems of Red River Gorge beyond climbing.