Top 5 Rock Climbing Crags in Red River Gorge for Newbies

Planning your first climbing trip to the Red River Gorge, Kentucky? We've been guiding climbers in the area for decades, and we thought it would be useful to compile this guide of helpful tips for your first time visiting our area. Climbing Location Tips Let’s start with the thing you’re most excited about—where to climb and how to get there! Guidebooks One of the best things about the Red is the abundance of climbing information. For the most part, parking, trails, and crags are easy to find. The area boasts an impressive collection of guidebooks. If you’re looking for an overview of the top crags, Best of the Red is a great choice. It features much of the Natural Bridge and Southern Regions, including Muir Valley, PMRP, and Miller Fork. A quick Google search will also reveal the Red River Gorge North and Red River Gorge South guidebooks. These are excellent resources but require two books. Many sport climbers stick with the South book since most trad climbing is in the north. However, note that the South guidebook doesn’t include the Miller Fork region. For that, there’s a separate Miller Fork guidebook, but now you’re looking at three or four books! Not to overwhelm you with yet another guidebook, consider The Red: 2nd Edition . This comprehensive guide covers all the crags in the south, Muir Valley, and Miller Fork, as well as sport crags in the north. Mountain Project Mountain Project has become a valuable resource as well. In fact, you could navigate many must-see crags using just Mountain Project if you’re good at reading descriptions and visualizing layouts. However, combining it with Best of the Red or The Red will give you maps and detailed crag layouts, making navigation even easier. Purchasing Guidebooks We recommend buying guidebooks in advance from your favorite outdoor store or online retailer so you can start planning. If you want to support local businesses, Miguel’s Pizza and Climb Shop carries guidebooks and other essential climbing gear. Call ahead to check their stock. Other local stores, like Daniel Boone Coffee Shop, often keep guidebooks in stock. If you’re passing through Lexington, J&H Outdoor Store is another good option. Getting to the Crags Guidebooks and Mountain Project typically use Miguel’s Pizza and Campground as a starting point for directions. Miguel’s is centrally located between the North and South regions. From there: PMRP (top of the lode hill): ~20 minutes Miller Fork parking: ~30 minutes Nada Tunnel: ~10 minutes Roads to the Crags Most roads in the Red are curvy, two-lane, 55 mph routes in good condition. However, gravel roads are common, and many require 4x4 and good clearance. PMRP : Park at the top of the lode hill if you don’t have 4x4. Fixer Road : Usually needs 4x4 unless it’s been recently graded. It’s typically in better shape at the start of spring and fall. Miller Fork : Almost always requires 4x4, and unfortunately there are no alternative parking options. Parking PARK ONLY IN DESIGNATED SPOTS. Many climbing locations are near private property or restricted land, so sticking to designated parking helps preserve access. If a lot is full, pick another crag to visit or come back later. Parking in the north gorge is mostly paved pull-offs. Arrive early to secure a spot, and avoid parking along the roadside unless it’s a designated area. Trails Trails to the crags are well-marked. Bushwhacking is rare and typically only necessary in remote areas of the north gorge. Stay on the trails. This helps immensely with erosion and additionally with your safety in terms of less likely to encounter ground bees, snakes, poison oak and ivy, stinging nettles, and getting lost. Best Time of the Year to Climb in the RRG Fall and spring are the best seasons for climbing in the Red, with October, November, March, and April being peak months. For more details, check out our blog, Best Climbing Seasons in the Red River Gorge: A Brief Guide . Lodging Where should you stay while visiting the RRG? There are actually many options! In our remote area, lodging is one thing we do have. With that said, if you are getting a room or cabin, make reservations well in advance especially for the peak seasons of Spring and Fall. Camping We should certainly start with the legendary staple that has hosted countless climbers over the decades— Miguel's Pizza and Campground . For a small fee you can tent camp or car camp. There are showers, restrooms, wifi, restaurant, gear shop, basketball court, and many other amenities. For other climber friendly campgrounds you can also check out: Land of the Arches, Lago Linda, and Callie’s. Airbnb Numerous Airbnbs are available in the Red. One standout option is Nicole’s Airbnb, hosted by a local climbing guide. Her home is just five minutes from Miguel’s and Muir Valley. airbnb.com/h/red-river-gorge-nicoles-home-room-1 airbnb.com/h/red-river-gorge-nicoles-home-room-2 Cabins Cabin options are abundant. Simply search online and filter by price, size, amenities, and pet-friendliness. Grocery The nearest full-service grocery store is the Kroger in Stanton, about 15 minutes from Miguel’s. For a wider selection, Lexington is about an hour away. Pets The Red is generally dog-friendly. It goes without saying to please keep your dog(s) on a leash. If your dog is not friendly with other dogs or people, leave them at home or board them at Scooter’s station . Muir Valley and Natural Bridge State Park (hiking) do not allow dogs. Rest Day Activities When you actually need a break from the Red River Gorge climbing pump you should consider these top rate rest day activities. Via Ferrata : Southeast Mountain Guides hosts the first Via Ferrata in the USA. It is a bit harder than climbers give it credit, providing a perfect active rest day option. Hiking : Believe it or not people travel to the Red for things other than climbing! “The Gorge” has some stellar hiking with moderate hill climbs and breath-taking views. Check out Gray’s arch, Hanson’s Point, and Courthouse Rock to name a few. Bourbon and Breweries : Take a short drive to sample Kentucky’s famous bourbons and local breweries near Lexington, Elizabethtown, and Louisville. For more ideas, check out our blog, Things to Do in Red River Gorge Besides Climbing: A Nature Lover’s Guide . Conclusion Your first trip to the Red River Gorge will be one to remember. Plan well, climb smart , and take in the beauty of this world-class destination. We know this will not be your last visit. Enjoy!

When is the best time to climb in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky? Do climbers head to the cliffs year-round? In this brief guide, we’ll give you insider beta on the best seasons to climb in "The Red" along with helpful tips and tricks for every time of year. The secret is out: you can climb in the Red all year long! As long as you have some schedule flexibility and are willing to brave certain conditions, it’s always possible to find a way to enjoy the rock. That said, the prime climbing months are typically October and November when the conditions are truly stellar. 

Nestled in the heart of Kentucky, Red River Gorge is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. While it’s widely renowned for its world-class rock climbing, the gorge offers so much more than scaling sandstone cliffs. From scenic hikes to peaceful water adventures, there’s something for every nature lover to enjoy. Whether you're visiting with friends or planning a family getaway, this guide will help you discover the many gems of Red River Gorge beyond climbing.

Tucked away in the rolling landscapes of eastern Kentucky, Red River Gorge is a world-renowned climbing destination that attracts climbers from all corners of the globe. Whether you’re just starting out or you’re a seasoned climber ready for heart-pounding overhangs, it’s a paradise for sport climbers seeking breathtaking scenery and unforgettable challenges. In this Red River Gorge climbing guide, we’ll delve into both top-rated sport climbing routes and a few that deserve more attention. With options for every skill level, let this be the guide for your climbing tick list. If you’re searching for things to do in the Red River Gorge, grab your gear, chalk up, and get ready to experience some of the best sport climbs in the Southeast!